Certain pleasures in life seem to revolve around nostalgia. Elements of our history often seem to evoke feelings that seem to want to take us back to times gone by.
However, no matter how hard we try to achieve or recreate those moments, something often spoils the illusion and we end up disappointed.
Every week we are flooded with advertisements in the newspapers offering romantic breaks in lovingly restored hotels in all corners of our beautiful countryside. We’ve been there, done it, and in the most part, enjoyed it too. We’ve sat in restaurants and bars, looking at old wooden panels and old paintings that do their best in the cause of authenticity, enjoyed good wholesome and well prepared meals, drunk some nice wines and have come away at the end of the weekend feeling refreshed and happy. It’s one of those little treats we allow ourselves every now and again, and in the main, the larger reputable hotel chains rarely disappoint. Despite this, they are more ‘breaks’ than anything else – the chance to get away from home to a change of scene and try to forget the day-to-day worries for a little while.
Last weekend we took a day out to visit The Manor House in Castle Combe, a delightful picture-book village in the heart of Wiltshire. One thing worth mentioning is appearance and first impressions: It doesn’t look like a hotel. Far from it! It looks like a large stately home set in beautiful lawned grounds, sheltered on all sides by wooded hills. The little brook flows through the grounds, under the bridge and along the green lawn and driveway. It is essentially a part of the village architecturally, with the main building and the quaint row of ‘cottages’ blending in with the other old Cotswold stone buildings in the village. Even the village Church has an entrance into the hotel grounds. It really is the stuff of dreams.
From the moment you arrive you are made to feel completely welcome, but in a very personal and friendly way as opposed to a regimental and routine way. Craig stepped up to the car, opened the door and welcomed us as though we were old friends, chatting politely and opening doors for us as we proceeded to Reception. At the reception desk we were informed that we would be staying in one of the cottages, ‘Woodford’, which Craig said was just a short walk away from the car park. Our bags were taken from the car and we were shown into what was at some point in history someone’s living room. As mentioned earlier, you would never believe for one minute that you were actually going into a hotel room. Everything is so authentic: the cottage front doors, the roadway outside looking over to the Church yard, the huge trees on the grassy verges just behind. You could really believe that you were transported back in time.
Once inside, the attention to detail becomes apparent. This is where history and modern technology are blended so effectively they become almost one. Despite the bare stone walls and heavy drapery, old teak and mahogany furniture, there was a large flat screen TV, a DVD player, bedside light controllers that control all the lights in the room from one little remote control. The bathroom was as large as our lounge at home, with recessed floor lights and a shower that you could fit a family in, complete with side jets and cascade head. It was luxury in the extreme.
Now we are not by any stretch of the imagination aristocratic, extremely wealthy, privileged or what some would call ‘upper-class’. We never expect to be treated differently to anyone else and to be perfectly honest, can feel quite uncomfortable when anyone attempts to be deferential and over-the-top when trying to please. If the quality and the service is good, then surely nothing else is necessary. This became obvious when we ambled over to the main hotel to have afternoon tea. There is absolutely nothing pretentious about The Manor House. The fireplaces are real, with real logs being added and stoked at regular intervals by real people. The smokiness and crackling of the fireplaces conveys such a sense of homeliness that it would be so easy to forget you were staying in a hotel at all. There are lots of little nooks and crannies where you can sit in peace and quiet, relax, read, and simply unwind completely. We chose one of the bay windows in the lightest of the lounges. The scones were still warm and fresh, the clotted cream was heavenly and the tea was brewed to perfection. No stone was left unturned in making this experience flawless and unforgettable.
As evening fell, the wind grew stronger and the rain fell heavier, so we headed for a night in. This was to be a meal at the Bybrook Restaurant, named after the brook that runs through the grounds. It is a splendid, grandiose room lined with historical paintings and leaded windows. A grand piano is being played in one corner and again the faint smell of the log fires in the lounges give everything such a genuine feel. This is not a hotel made to look and feel old. This is an old hotel, oozing character and class. It’s also not every day that you have the privilege of eating a meal in a restaurant on the day it celebrates receiving the accolade of a Michelin star. The food, the wine and the service were nothing short of outstanding!
We were welcomed with an interesting little dish containing a celeriac and apple espuma, deliciously creamy and perfect to whet the appetite for what was to follow. Terrine of duck and Pan-Seared Scallops were our starters and Fillets of Beef and Chicken followed. Each course was perfection on a plate. The tastes and flavours were exquisite, complemented by the wines recommended by the restaurant’s own Sommelier. It was impossible to pick fault with any of the dishes and the meal was served at our pace, not the restaurant’s. The waiting staff were so well disciplined, being fully aware of our needs but without being overbearing or over-attentive. When the food and service are this good, the memories last forever, so much so that any future romantic breaks we take will always use this weekend as the yardstick by which anything else will be measured.
This was a weekend that not only relaxed and refreshed, but impressed us immensely. Never before have we gained so much pleasure and had such a lovely time without even leaving the confines of the hotel. Everything you could possibly need or want on a romantic break is there: from a pampering in the Spa to a single malt at the end of the evening; from a round of golf on the hotel’s own championship golf course to a cup of Lapsang Souchon tea in one of the luxurious lounges, everything is provided for in what must be the ultimate way of passing a romantic weekend in a home-from-home setting. This was not a romantic short break; this was a complete romantic indulgence that will be etched on our memories forever. If you ever have the urge to do something completely unforgettable, this surely must be it.
Our thanks go out to Paul Thompson for his warm welcome and hospitality and to all the staff for the superb service they provided throughout.
Nigel Crawford
January 2009
The Manor House is part of the Exclusive Hotels group.
They offer many different break packages including 'Do Not Disturb' packages, for those wanting a complete escape, Easter Breaks and of course romantic Valentines Day breaks.
More Here
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Bluestone Wales
